Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Farkwa, Tanzania, Monday September 29th

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com

The snowball of experiences and emotions rolled on relentlessly. Jarvah had been up in the night with many wet nappies and had needed more Panadol to control his temperature. Rosie and Ticha were sure that something was more seriously wrong than just being overheated in church, so Rosie bowed out of our second letter writing session, to look after Jarvah and in case they decided to take him in to Dodoma for tests, five hours away on the bus. Poor little Jarvah was worn out and definitely not himself.
Keith and I left without breakfast, intending to make the most of every single minute of our last two days at the secondary school. We had not arrived in time for assembly before, so it was interesting to see the 7.15 a.m. line up and to hear the gentle voice of the head prefect addressing the students. The school song was sung, with real fervour behind the voices of all these young people, who know themselves to be privileged among their peers, because of the opportunity to study. Next hair, nails and shoes were checked, with the prefects urged to be careful, and to send anyone not in readiness for school inside. Inside, a brief word to inquire if there were problems, and when none was mentioned, a plea to take care next morning, and the two, out of nearly two hundred students, returned to their lines.
A notice was read to the silent crowd by the head prefect, Madam Simbee made a brief address in Swahili, which twice raised laughter, and the students were dismissed to their classes. The school song is sung daily and the Tanzanian National Anthem twice a week.
Madam Simbee and I started with the scholarship students, and Lukas had been right about needing further time. Some students had brought in drafts that they had written for homework but others were starting from the point we’d finished at last Friday. I wondered if, for them as for me, it seemed a long time ago. It would have been impossible to correct all the spelling and all the English constructions, and not very valuable educationally without the time to teach about the corrections. In addition, as a sponsor, I thought that it would be more telling and more interesting to receive a letter written at the student’s own standard, and to be able to see progress as the student progressed up the school.More important was for me to read the more than forty letters in order to check them for adherence to the guidelines - telling interesting information and not asking for things. Most students wrote letters that would have been interesting for their sponsors to read, and which showed awareness of the Australian cultural features that they had learnt about. For some, however, putting themselves into someone else’s shoes and seeing which details would help to bring a topic alive for the sponsor, was very difficult. Two students were still in need of individual help at the end of the session, and I was grateful to two form four boys who stayed back with us and gave back-up support in Swahili. With the envelopes addressed and sealed, there may have been a few that slipped past my vigilance, but I was confident that the very individual and interesting letters would help the sponsors to form connections with their students.
Meanwhile, Madam Simbee had been taking new and creative photos of the scholarship students so that she could burn a CD for Rosie to take back to Joy and the sponsors in Australia. It was a pity that several of the students were away.One of the students, a young man in form four, wrote the most outstanding letter on education in Tanzania in very good English. He had been absent for the part of our Friday session in which Rosie said that it is not appropriate to ask for things, and he had included a passionate plea for further assistance if at all possible, with his education for the next two years, when no support from the scholarship program is expected. To me, this was different to asking for a bike, but nevertheless he was asked to remove the paragraph. His sponsor would never receive that part of his message, but Keith and I had received it, and together we continued to investigate a practical way for the form four students to continue. Since the first week, the stone of dismay that had hung heavily around me, weighted by my increasing emotional involvement with the students, had led me to consider sponsoring them all.
We had meetings with the Head Master, Mr Chalala, and Madam Simbee, we wrote up tables of projected costs, learnt about the various possible educational options for after form four and discussed the possibilities for individual students. We learnt that it is not just a pass that is required, but that there are three standards, each of which leads off to a different range of options. The vocational options, such as teaching and the military, are recruitments and as such are subsidised. To gain a place in a State Secondary School for form five, a student must pass the exams with results in the categories of ‘good’ or ‘excellent’, with certain averages in particular combinations of subjects. Any student from Farkwa who achieved this would have to board at or near the school that he/she was successful in gaining a place in, since even the nearest was about 30 kilometres away. The level of the marks, and the preferences nominated by the student, would combine to allocate places. A second round would follow, after first responses were sorted out.
All the time, we were aware that our suggestions all involved more work, more responsibility and more accounting procedures for the teachers here. It was so gratifying to see the response – delight that a solution might be found to solve a problem that also weighed heavily on them. Together we worked out what seemed to be a workable proposal, and I undertook to write it up and send it to Joy, the scholarship scheme coordinator, and the sponsors.
In total, the money required for a form five student would be something just over 200.000 Tanzanian Shillings. Unfortunately the economic news was not good, with our Australian dollars buying many fewer shillings than only two weeks before, but even so, at about Au$260, the annual cost of an education, including board and uniform, would hopefully be within the realms of possibility for some Australian sponsors.
The return email from Joy was to be encouraging, and as I write, in mid October, it seems that our aims may be achieved. Assistance continues to be needed, since each year it is hoped that more very needy students will be given the gift of an education. There are also two form four students, not on scholarships to date, who are likely to do well and who would qualify for a future scholarship, if donors can be found.

If any reader would like to be a sponsor or know more about the Fostering Futures for Kids in Farkwa, please visit the website:
http://farkwakids.org

After the break, Rosie rang to say that they were on their way to Dodoma on the bus. They would have some tests done for Jarvah to find out what was wrong, rather than wait, since there had been no improvement.
At school, the hiccups and frustrations that can happen in rushing to complete projects were happening. We both needed computer time and, on top of that, a miscommunication between Keith and me meant that one job had not been done at all and another wasn’t done as required. The computers were being juggled between battery and solar power. I was teaching Madam Simbee and some students how to make slide shows, while Keith was teaching about managing files. At last, with the school computer free for a moment, I was able to show more projects to the form fours and the slide shows to the form threes.My touch typing to complete the unfinished task amazed the students and teacher onlookers. Keith was helping a small group of students to try out some basic word processing skills. It was hectic and continued so as we worked until the bell, and then kept going since the students didn’t want to stop.
Just before home time, Rosie rang to say that Jarvah had the early stages of typhoid, and that he was on anti-biotics and paracetamol, and that they would stay overnight in Dodoma. There was no choice really, since the next bus would be at 8.30 a.m. It was a relief for them that it had been sorted out, but it had been a long day of queuing and paying, before the right medication had started.
Keith worked on at school until dark. It was becoming a habit. I asked Madam Simbee to write a note for me in Swahili, so that the family would understand all the details about Jarvah when I returned with the news. Pius, a form four student who was practising on the computer, typed the note up in a colourful and stylish font. With no printer, it was the quickly written original that I clasped in my hand as he escorted me down the hill.
We ran into Lukas near the shop, where I was buying yet more pens. He was pretty downcast, and worried. He had just finished his second last day of school ever at Farkwa, and after tomorrow and the exams, that would be it. It had hit him hard, and I felt sad to see his distress.
On the way we met the lady who had been so friendly to me on other occasions. She clasped my hands, made small talk which was translated by Pius, and after about five minutes, asked me to come with her to her house to have a drink. Having heard about her problems with drinking, I was in a quandary as to what to do. I asked Pius for his advice, and he recommended against it since she seemed a little ‘not herself’. It seemed good advice, especially in view of not sharing a language. Pius showed his maturity and the respect that is shown elders, in gently thanking her but explaining that I had to be home very quickly and I couldn’t visit that day.
I was in turmoil over whether to give some hope to Pius, Lukas and the other students who had shared their worries with me over their futures after form four, but at that stage, before any response from Australia, things were so uncertain. I decided that I had better wait.
At home, I presented the letter to Bibi and Fidelisi, and soon everyone had gathered around. It seemed that typhoid was not too bad, particularly if caught early, and also that the medical history of the family had regularly included all the diseases that really frighten me. They were glad of the news and appreciated having the details. Hawa helped me with the kerosene lanterns, and without Rosie home, and with Keith still at school, she and Maria took me under their wings. The three of us had dinner together, and after we had eaten, Maria found the photo album that Rosie had brought with her on this visit. We had a wonderful time, recognising people who we knew in common such as Rosie’s family, and even our house and us. Rosie and Ticha had travelled quite widely when Ticha was first in Australia and there were many beautiful photos of landscapes and also of different aspects of life. Hawa was wonderful for translating, but it was amazing how much Maria and I could exchange by gestures and the few words that we had in each other’s languages. Keith arrived to find us having ‘a girl’s night in’, and enjoyed looking at the photos too while he ate his dinner.
It was a quiet evening without the little boys, and we hoped that poor little Jarvah was improving and that he and Rosie would get some sleep.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Farkwa, Tanzania, Sunday September 28th

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com

There was a slow start to the day in our house, but outside there was a hive of activity as the food was being prepared for the joint celebration of Jarvah’s baptism and his grandparents’ (almost) 50th wedding anniversary. Extra family members and friends had been called upon to help. The alcohol, proudly shown to us, looked like grey sludge. The time of the church service did not seem to be clearly known, and we dressed much later than when Keith and I had been told it would start. The boys took a while to prepare and Ticha headed off with Jarvah, while Sebi was being dressed. It was a bit of a rush in the end, but we were all admired in our finery, and I thought that Rosie looked very beautiful.

There were lots of children outside when we arrived, and many of them were wearing a yellow and white outfit because they were in a junior version of the church choir.We entered, and eventually Ticha and Jarvah joined us. He had just been double checking the name to be used in the ceremony and all was well. The church looked festive, resplendent with lines of brightly coloured pennants criss-crossing above the heads of the congregation. All those with wedding anniversaries were moved to sit together, and the choir could be heard rehearsing outside. A long time passed before the service commenced, with the full church becoming hotter and stuffier by the minute.

At last everything was underway, with Father Godi wearing gold and white, and being assisted by Mshaka and with Freddy and Majuto as altar boys.Jarva had had a feed and had fallen asleep during the long wait, but when he woke he was very hot. Rosie took off his top. Unusually for him, he fell asleep again after only a short look around. The wedding anniversary couples, wearing leys, stood while their part of the ceremony was held. After everyone sat down again, Father Godi gave an address on marriage and asked Bibi and Fidelisi to stand, and even asked them questions about living together for so long and yet not having any domestic violence. It was indeed a special moment for them to share with the community, in the church that has played an important part in their lives. Their answers brought laughter, and I am sure that Bibi must have given one of her down to earth, very independent replies.

Jarvah was awake, but hot and dopey – he could hardly keep his eyes open. Sebi had long since been outside playing when Ticha and Rosie carried Jarvah up to the front to join the group for baptisms.I could not see much from my position near the back of the church, but Rosie and Ticha said that Jarvah became even hotter and limp, and that his eyes started to roll. They were terrified, and with signals, alerted others so that the baptism was completed quickly and the sister had left the church on her way to the hospital to receive them as soon as they could get there. The hospital is on the mission grounds, not far from the church, so as we rushed out of the church, we scooped up Sebi and Rosie and Ticha raced ahead with Jarvah. The sister said that she thought the heat in the church had been responsible for him overheating, and he was not happy with the necessary dose of paracetamol that he was given to bring down his temperature. At home, he gradually picked up and was then off with his beloved uncle Asamio. He alternated between seeming to be fine, dropping back again, having more paracetamol and then picking up.

Meanwhile we had lunch and people started to arrive after church. Rosie and Ticha’s house became the home for the catering, with people being fed over a long period of time. Drumming and singing announced the arrival of a large group of women and children who had come from another village to perform and share in the day.They were led down to the mango tree, where they continued to sing and play while they were served two buckets of alcohol. A small bag was used to filter out the solids, with the liquid being caught in a gourd which was then passed from person to person. Some mothers passed it to their children to have a sip. Gracia and Maria had taken us down to the tree, where I joined in some of the dancing.Keith was the only man under the tree, save for a man who was sitting there before the women invaded. After about an hour the women left to walk the ten kilometres home.

It was not long before the members of the church choir arrived, singing on their way up the path from the road. Bruno, Bibi’s brother, had paid for them to sing, as his contribution to the festivities. All the family was dressed up, with Fidelisi wearing the shirt we gave him and Bibi in our gift of a scarf, tied in a very stylish way on her head. Maria, Gracia and Inyasia were in their finery, even though they were flat out with the food, and Hawa looked stunning in her new skirt and top.

After two songs the choir was given lunch, and people settled down to chatting and sitting around in groups. The alcohol tasted sweet, but still had the slightly bitter tang of beer.

Everyone was very pleased to see Mshaka, and he was treated with great deference. There was a long period of sitting around and chatting before the choir sang again, with the guests of honour, Bibi and Fidelisi, seated before them. Some of us danced to the singing, and the choir members swayed to the beat and sang their hearts out. There were a few speeches, from Bruno and Alnesti, and since we were welcomed and made a fuss of, I thanked everyone for their welcomes, offered our congratulations, and said that Rosie was lucky to have joined such a wonderful family. Alnesti translated my words into Swahili.

I sat with Mama Flora, a friend of Rosie’s and Mama Rosie; who had made my dress, and we were able to talk, with Rosie’s help. The sisters from the Mission joined us, and of course Sister Anna Lydia was her charming self again. The crowd was disappearing, and so was the light.

After dinner, the boys fell asleep early, and Keith volunteered to watch them while Rosie and I went to the family dancing and singing around the fire. The girls were joined by Freddy, a cousin and Asimio, and some of the songs and dances were traditional Sandawe ones. Buckets made excellent drums. It was the ideal finish to the day, which had been one of both stress and great pleasure.

On the way back to the house, I commented to Rosie that I had still more mosquito bites, and yet Keith had none. It was with great relief that I heard her diagnosis – probably flea bites from being around the shady goat shed. It was only when I was happily telling Keith that I didn’t have to worry about malaria just yet, that I realised that not so long ago I would have been horrified at the thought of fleas.

As in Australia there is substantial separation of the sexes at a party. The older men gathered under the verandah to drink and chat. The blue bucket had the alcohol in it. A large gourde would be dipped into the bucket then passed around the group.




Farkwa, Tanzania, Saturday September 27th

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com

I slept through the usual morning alarms of goats, chooks and children, emerging only at 7.20 am. My body knew that it was Saturday and that I could sleep in. Not so Keith’s body, which is always up and about, whatever the day. Rosie and Ticha were still disturbed about the baptism, but felt compelled to fall in with the requirements laid down by the priest. Ticha went across to the Mission to hand in a note with the new name on it. The family was on to the job of alcohol production, with many large pans of red sorgum and water bubbling away and being stirred on the fires. The next stage involved putting the thick mixture into many buckets and constantly scooping it about with half gourds, to hasten cooling. After that, it was placed indoors where it started to ferment. It was amazing how quickly the cooled mixture started to heave and bubble, with a creamy froth covering the top.
A few days previously, Pius and Fredy’s mother had come over to discuss the future with Rosie and Ticha, and this morning we were heading for a rock art site and would be able to call in on her on the way. Luckily everyone is looking at future needs, and not at past happenings, so the pleasant meetings on both occasions have enabled consideration be given to everyone’s needs to keep in touch after the boys move to Australia and how to continue to be part of the boys’ lives. It was very touching to see the older boys with their little brother, Henry, and some beautiful family photos were taken. Some were of the combined families – the reality for Fredy and Pius and now very much a part of Rosie’s and her children’s world too. It was only a pity that Ticha was not there.Our convoy of escorts of all the older boys and Hawa broke up, with only Hawa, Jarvah, Keith, Rosie and me continuing on to see the rock paintings. The others stayed to visit longer, and Sebi, was induced to stay by having a packet of biscuits to share out and eat.
We had not been able to contact Ticha’s uncle Bruno, who lived on a farm about five kilometres out of town, on which the rock paintings are found, and so we had set off on spec.
The main water pump is situated just beyond Pius and Freddy’s mother’s house, so we inspected it and the derelict animal drinking tanks that it would have once fed. Maintenance must be a nightmare here, with the wet season and erosion and animal and human agents causing problems.
We had not continued far when we met a man also going to see Uncle Bruno, and so we walked along together. Bruno was on his way to the village to attend a meeting, as he explained when we met under an enormous baobab tree. It was not possible for us to go to the site alone, and no-one was at home, so we stopped to taste baobab fruit before we retraced our steps. At this time of the year, the baobab is showing its trunk and branch structures to best effect. Not unlike an old elephant, the trunk is usually a bulbous shape and the branches can be quite wall-like and look as if their bark is draped, flabby skin. The circumference of the trunk can be many metres, and some are so wide that they become dwelling places if they are hollow. The branches rapidly decrease in size and multiply in number the further they are from the trunk. This sometimes looks like an inexperienced hairdressing apprentice has been let loose with a crimping iron, since there are many twists and turns before they peter out abruptly. In the wet season they are clothed in leaves. The fruit hang in a furry casing and the ones we tried were about 15 centimetres long, with a mass of white fibres connecting hard seeds. The fibres and the flesh immediately surrounding the seeds are full of Vitamin C, are delicious and are used as lollies and treats. We bashed the outer cases on rocks to reach the fruit, whose taste is a little like passionfruit only sweeter.Back to collect the other children, we noticed the dispensary where Pius and Freddy’s step-father, the doctor, was seeing a patient. Water was available just below, and donkeys with water containers tied onto them were waiting patiently for the filling up to be completed. The doctor returned, and we talked with him about health issues while Rosie and Mama Freddy organised the children. He has a microscope but it is not in use. I gathered that there would need to additional special training for it to be useful, although we didn’t discuss this in full. Instead a diagnosis is made from careful observation of the symptoms and from a very detailed history of how the illness has manifested itself. The doctor had a lot of experience and knowledge of the diseases that are found here, and could prescribe appropriate medications. I was about to ask about the relationship between the Mission Hospital and the Doctor’s clinic, when suddenly we were off. Like with lots of things, my curiosity had to take second place since we were extended family on a friendly social call, and that role took over as we wished everyone farewell.
The return journey was shorter but more potentially perilous. We followed a bush track beside the water pipeline, where the gaping holes in the termite mounds were possibly harbouring black mambas, known for their potent poison. Prickly plants grabbed at our legs and clothes and the heat of the day stole our energy. The children strode on ahead, Jarvah slept and Sebi was carried by Fredy, who suddenly remembered his precious radio and ran back to get it. Keith dawdled behind taking in everything. It was one of his rare chances to be out and about, and he was keen to learn as much about the environment as possible. A tree at the doctor’s house had been dangerous, not on its own account but because it attracted enormous black wasps with a nasty sting. There were many different species of acacias, most with long thorns, and lots of plants that are deciduous, losing their leaves in the dry season. It was probably too hot for most self respecting birds to be about, and he didn’t see any. Some broken stones showed where the workers had been gathering rocks for the new house.
The pipeline track brought us out at the makeshift family soccer field above Ticha’s parents’ place, and home again. The older boys were kicking the soccer ball around and, unlike the birds, were racing about at full speed despite the weather.
An old man appeared at the front door with a lovely hand made wooden chair, with thin stems bent into shape to form the seat, back and arms. Keith joked that all it needed was a stubby holder. It was very elegant and Rosie bought it for her father-in-law, Fidelisi. She arranged for a second one to be delivered too.
The bus finally arrived with Mshaka on board, but apart from a brief greeting, the family would have to wait for his visit, since protocol demanded that he stay at the Mission. Alnesti’s daughters, Betty and Resti (Ticha’s nieces), arrived on the bus from their home in a nearby village and their mother, another Mama Rosie (Alnesti’s wife), would come the next day.
Keith went to the school to work with Mr Chalala, who would be away for a few days. Rosie and I received our new outfits for the next day and we tried them on. Mine was spectacular, in the sense of being a spectacle, but I liked it and no-one would be able to say that I hadn’t dressed for the occasion. Rosie’s was lovely, and the style and material really suited her. Amazingly, Mama Rosie (the tailor) had been able to complete all the outfits that we four members of the family had asked for only two days before.
Rosie and I helped out collecting water for the tanks. Some people were paid to assist, since water was essential to building the new house as well as for all the household and celebratory needs. Most people carried the buckets on their heads, and seemed to take the weight in their stride, but I found the full buckets very heavy. It was a relief to have a turn with the child minding.
This is the tap that provides water to dozens of families in the Farkwa village. There are also a small number of outlets at other sites. Many people would have to carry their water several hundred metres.
When Mshaka came over, Rosie and Ticha talked to him about their feelings, and about how they wanted Jarvah to be baptised with his own name. There were many baptised children around with names not in the Bible – some with Muslim names, some with names like ‘Good Luck’ and others who were given the names of the days of the week. While Mshaka would be performing the baptism, he was visiting and was not in a position to make changes. It was sad to see Rosie and Ticha so distressed over what should be a joyous occasion for them. Eventually, Rosie rang Father Godi and calmly put the ultimatum that it was Jarvah or nothing. In half an hour she had her answer, Jarvah was in and maybe that name would belong to a saint one day! Common sense and humanity had prevailed.
There was a great sound of drums and voices coming from the family fire area and we all went over to listen. Hawa and her cousins, Betty and Resti, were so happy to be together that they were dancing and singing together to Maria’s drumbeat. Keith sat talking to Alnesti, and was perched on one of the new throne-like chairs, an honour bestowed on him by Fidelisi. Rosie and I sat on the ground, as close as the dust allowed, and it was not long before Gracia, and then we, joined in. Keith went off to bed long before Rosie and I had had enough. The dances and songs were repetitive and so it was possible to copy the steps and kind of sing along. The content sounded important but was usually fairly mundane, such as the one about not drinking from water in a well that the monkeys had spoilt. Other times the words were made up, such as in a welcome to us, which a leader introduced and the other singers picked up. The girls sang out, stirred up dust through the many stamped and shuffled moves, and had a ball.
Eventually we left them to it, and their beautiful young voices carried on until long after we were asleep.

The bathroom is outdoors and the bath is a bucket of cold water.

Washing the clothes by hand is a daily job for Rosie.

The strange upside down tree.

The shop down the hill from Rosie's house

These men are cutting branches off a large tree. The wood may be used as firewood but it is more likely to be made into charcoal, which can be sold in the towns.

The local bus arriving. It is not only very crowded on the inside, but there's not much room left on top either.