Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Grand tour of Egypt: Felucca sailing, Aswan

Later that day the beautiful felucca picked us up and we spent the rest of the day until sunset lazing about on cushions and drowsing away.
In former times those needing to go to the toilet on a felucca had to hold on, go over the side or ask the captain to pull into the shore for a visit to ‘the big toilet’ (the desert). We were one of the first groups to have the benefit of the ‘Mother Ship’, a diesel vessel that provides toilets and dining for those on related feluccas.
Mostly the Mother Ship was out of sight and when we did pull in beside her it involved major manoeuvring and sailing skill so it was no surprise that no-one on our felucca requested a toilet stop and then there was a big rush for the rest rooms as soon as boarding for dinner was organised.
We moored on the Nile bank – sand dunes and palm trees with a village far off in the distance. Setting off to gather wood in the dark by torch light was entertaining and good exercise after a lazy afternoon. There did not seem to be anything we would describe as wood; mainly palm fronds and small prickle bushes, but a long excursion across the soft sand produced some prickly sticks and branches, enough for a bonfire later in the evening. We dined on the mother ship while another tour group dined upstairs and then we got together around the fire. Some of the Nubian crew performed on drums and sang, encouraging us to join in with clapping, singing and dancing.
Gradually the crowd dwindled as the weary passengers left to set out their sleeping bags and be rocked to sleep by the waves of the Nile. We underestimated how cold it would be and didn’t put on enough layers of clothing but, despite that, we got in a reasonable amount of sleep. Another passenger unluckily slept just where the wake from a passing cruiser swished up over the side and his head got splashed. Travelling by felucca is so relaxing and the night on board just topped off a very enjoyable day.

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