Plakias Crete Monday March 17th

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Domestic chores – now a tiny part of our lives – called, so we spent time washing our clothes, cleaning the caravan, packing up, writing and sorting and re-sizing photos. At last we were free so we set off for the beach.

We started off on the higher road and then, with beautiful Suda beach in sight, then realised that to go that way, we would spend all the available time coming and going and very little time being there. Luckily for us, there was a genuine walking track marked with red paint down the incline to the coast road. This path had beautiful wildflowers beside it all the way to the lower road. Walking back towards Plakias, we came upon a set of steps, virtually hidden in the shrubbery, leading down to a beautiful little inlet. It was so wonderful to feel the waves, and the water was not nearly as cold as at Port Fairy in the summer. I wished I had had my bathers because the water was so inviting and I was getting pretty wet anyway.

There were rocks just off shore and the waves were very choppy. Three plastic bottles bobbed in the water, anchored to their spots and attached by ropes to the land. Some sort of nets or traps, we presumed, or possibly to guide small boats between the rocks. The sand appears to be dirty but is a mix of yellow sand and tiny little grey stones. Plants grew practically to the water line in rock crevices. It was all so picturesque and Johannes told us that, even in summer, it is possible to find little bits of beach without the crowds.

We had had a wonderful time staying with Johannes in his caravan. We thanked him for sharing his rural home with us. We would be very happy to welcome him to Inverleigh if he is ever in Australia.

We set off on the bus to Rethymno, discussing whether to stay there or to go on to Iraklio. The Lonely Planet Guide has been an indispensable aid, so we consulted it yet again, like an Oracle. Ultimately, Iraklio won, so that we could make an early start on our visit to Knossos. After another bus trip, we booked into the Iraklio Youth Hostel, had the regular tea of cheese, salad and bread in a small square, and went to bed earlier than usual. As part of the Greek workers’ campaign for a fair retirement scheme, the local garbage collectors are on strike and there are piles of garbage in every street. In many places the stench is dreadful.

The beds are comfortable but this hostel in no way resembles the very good one at Rethymno. Antiquated and barely adequate facilities, no internet access or kitchen and hardly any other residents combine to make it just a place for sleeping, at a price higher than it is worth.