Bayonne, France, Saturday July 19th

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Today was our day for exploring the Nive, the smaller river that splits the town into three parts, along with the Adour. The Nive is really a watery main street with traditional tall, thin Basque style houses facing onto it and restaurants and market stalls running along the banks. Bridges close together allow for easy crossing and steps and ramps down to the water show that river transport must once have played a major role in moving goods and people in and out of the city. There is no commercial activity visible on this river now. Most of the buildings in the city centre are built on long thin plots of land running between narrow lanes which are now pedestrian thoroughfares. It has the look of a child’s town set, with all the buildings pushed together inexpertly, creating curving and irregular roads all leading to the cathedral. It is really charming and retains its old character whilst having a completely modern commercial and business centre. In this run up to the Festival of Bayonne, buntings in the Basque colours of red and green stretch back and forth across the streets from house to house.

We had made an early start so the market stalls were just being set up as we arrived. We have seen beggars in Bayonne, some appearing to be young and not disabled and to us it was a mystery as to why they would beg. Here on the bridge we saw a most ancient Basque man, wearing his beret and standing beside his one case of potatoes with his homemade bucket scales, ready to convert his labour into money to see him through the next week. There was no pitying him, poor as he appeared to be, because he retained such great dignity and his eyes, narrowed against the glare, were clear and sharp. He did not tout for sales, but waited quietly for purchasers to come to him. Other stalls on the bridge were of the lower key variety, but down in front of the covered market, many larger stalls were setting up in the sunshine.

With no purchases to make, we strolled back over the bridge, passed the remains of the city walls and followed the path along the river, meeting many people carrying large baskets and cloth bags. At one stage a rickety old station wagon with a sleeping older passenger and a load of trestle tables and produce wheezed its way past, its elderly driver probably having risen very early to harvest his produce for sale.

We ran out of track at a rail bridge so made our way back to cross the river at a highway bridge with no charm (except for the wonderful flower pots), and from then on we were on the bike and walking track and out in the country. The track was well used by cyclists, walkers and runners, with everyone out enjoying such a beautiful morning. The river was graced by rowers and small private jetties, some with boats tied up. Now and then we passed a large farm house and grounds, some still being used for animals and crops and others now large rambling gardens with trees.

A bleak caravan park with long shaggy grass and stony areas proclaimed itself as the municipal camping ground for July and August. We didn’t see any amenities blocks and we did see a man soaping himself up and rinsing himself off in a basin, so either they were far away or it is a pretty basic place. After about three kilometres we came to an enigmatic sign which we see everywhere and which we presume means ‘be careful’. It was at the start of a small inoffensive looking, roadside forest so we weren’t sure whether there were wolves or what prowling about in there to be careful of.

On the way back we bought some basil – I thought there wasn’t any but it was simply that there are so many varieties that I haven’t seen. We had a very late lunch with a tomato and basil salad, and then I blogged away at the backlog of days while Keith had a sleep. It was a lazy time, outside under the sun umbrella in Catherine’s green and pretty garden, and the evening just drifted past.The tall spires of the Cathedral can be seen above the rooftops from almost anywhere in Bayonne.

The Town Hall used to be a theatre and it is decorated with a set of statues on the roof, one of which has a strong resemblance to the Statue of Liberty, which was donated to the USA by France.
A string trio busking in the streets of Bayonne.