Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Farkwa, Tanzania, Friday, September 26th

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com

Rosie and I planned our letter writing session with the scholarship students while we had breakfast. The main thing was to explain that the gift was the education, and that requests for presents, further assistance and trips to Australia were not appropriate. Neither were letters that said “Thank you” in every sentence and then signed off. Rosie would deal with what not to do, and explain why, and I would talk about ideas for what could make interesting letters for their Australian sponsors.

My first task at school was to work with the other form two group on their introduction project, and with only 47 in this group, it was slightly easier. With Madam Simbee’s supervision of the photos, I was able to talk to every student about what they had written and to help with the English sentence structures. We played a game of ‘Twenty Questions’ and it was interesting to hear the questions that they asked to help them work out which teacher was being thought of, such as, “Do they drink alcohol?” Of course, thinking a little more deeply about it, I realised that this was not just about habits but about religion as well.

The rest of the session was spent in me answering any questions that the students had, and Madam Simbee left when there were no questions, feeling correctly that they would be less inhibited if she were not there. Questions after she left were about how young people meet each other, what customs Australians have to do with marriage and courtship, whether Australians liked people with black skin, and lots about religion. Not a single one about koalas, so it was interesting for all of us. I asked return questions related to their customs. Everyone listened intently and when someone had a question, he or she would raise a hand and stand beside the seat to ask it. It was all very orderly and once the more confident ones got started, lots of students spoke up. In fact, in every class there are five or six students who seem to take me under their wing, and who don’t want what I suggest to have no response. They will always start the ball rolling and smile at me encouragingly, even when it is not their turn. In this particular class, there are two wonderful boys (really men) who catch on quickly and explain to others or to me if we can’t understand.

As I was leaving, I thanked the class for listening and speaking so well. The students broke into spontaneous applause, and one rose to make a speech, saying that they are so glad to have me, and that they hope that I come back and that I will always be welcome. It was so very touching, and I would happily work on here for a much longer time. I am already torn between the longing for being part of my family and my old life and the longing for more travels, and now I also want to spend more time in this school.

Rosie arrived and Joy rang from Australia to discuss computers with Keith. Sister Anna Lydia from the mission arrived to take the whole school for Religious Instruction, since Father Godi was away. She held my hands and we greeted each other like old friends. She is such a sweet natured and lovely person who laughs and smiles her way through life. She told me that her session would include bible readings, instruction on the messages of Christianity and singing. We heard the voices rise in unison for the start of her session as we sat down to our boiled eggs and peanuts. Rosie whispered her concerns about flatulence to me, given her diet of beans and peanut butter, but in the end she couldn’t resist the little bags of peanuts that Madam Simbee had sent a student to the end of the school drive to buy for us.

At last, and an hour after we had expected, our letter writing session began. Rosie gave a very clear statement of the expectations of the letters, and what not to write. For every 30 seconds of Rosie in English, Madam Simbee gave a dramatised version in Swahili, continuing for about five minutes. She used humour and examples, and since we had discussed everything with her, she knew all about the issues. About an hour had passed when I started on what to include, so I simply listed the topics that they had been telling me about, and pointed out that each one of them, with lots of details, would make a good basis for a letter. A bit of up to date community or personal news would finish it off, and maybe some questions so that the letters became a bit like a conversation. We were about to hand out the paper when we realised that no-one had the requested books and pens with them, and after they were fetched, that it was lunch time. We asked the students to write their letters for homework, but on the way out Lukas explained to me that it was not likely that many would be done, and that maybe I should arrange some more time during school if we wanted letters from all. He is a form four student who is most astute and a very hard and competent worker. He is a perceptive person and I value his advice. He is in form four and longs for the opportunity to go further. From the work I have seen him do, he certainly shows the right sort of potential.

It was not lunchtime as such, because there was no water, although the pipe was supposed to be fixed. So, without water for cooking, the school closed for the afternoon. Everyone was due back at school at 4 pm for the Mbuzi (goat) Cup. This was an innovation of Mr Edson’s; a soccer competition between the four forms, with the winners taking home a live goat, second place receiving a rooster and third, a hen. Only the fourth placed losers would receive nothing, which seemed a little harsh, rubbing in their status even more. Soccer, or football as it is known here, is all the rage. There were recently some late afternoon inter-village matches, with teams walking home ten kilometres and more, singing and dancing if they were victorious and analysing play and planning new strategies for the next meeting if they lost. Freddy had been a hero, kicking the winning goals in one of these for primary students, held before we arrived.

It was true that the water was back on, but as yet we had no water for anything other than cooking. Managed by a community committee, there are always hiccups and the family tries to fill its tanks when it can to be sure to be able to tide themselves over, at least for cooking and drinking. One person at the outlet keeps a tally of the buckets taken by each household, and people pay the rates that the committee has set. Maintenance is not always a high priority, with a slow leak in the pipe that Rosie remembers from two years ago still going.

Keith stayed on at school to work with the teachers, but Rosie and I went home to have our lunch of ugali and vegetables. All the vegetables are cut up very finely here, and cooked with a lot of salt and oil. It is a long time since we have eaten anything that is not almost a sauce, so when it was the turn of the potato dish and there were some lumps of potato, it was a welcome change. I like the meals and feel a bit guilty that I do not help cook them, although it is always a treat when they ‘just arrive’, usually brought over by Maria. After eating, Jarvah and I were playing out on the front steps when we saw a goat – the goat for the prize for the soccer - being led up the hill to the school.

Later on Rosie and Ticha went over to the Mission for baptism lessons, and I set off for the soccer with a group of six girls who have often been my escorts. On the way they asked if they could try on my sun hat, and were very pleased to have their photos taken in such a strange item. They have their hair shaved, and don’t wear earrings, both of which are school requirements. They took me over to a row of chairs in the shade and left me with the form four boys and a couple of the teachers. They had important form two girls business to do, since they would be in the cheer squad which would support the boys in their team.

Lukas sat beside me and, in impeccable English, explained what was happening. Form two and form three would play each other for the cup, and it was to be just like real soccer matches, with security provided by an armed soldier. Not having a real one of those, one of the boys was dressed as much like the military as possible and carried a wooden gun with a metal bayonet stuck into it.He took his role seriously, attending the line up with the teams and the referee at the start of the match, patrolling the boundary to control the crowds, and forcing the cheer squad off the ground when they went crazy and ran on to it dancing and chanting. Not once did he laugh or let down his guard.

Tamba had borrowed my camera to be the press and was asserting himself, even without a press card, in this role, to go onto the field before play began to get some team close ups. The heroes - form two in green and gold, and form three in blue – paraded around the ground. The form three cheer squad was out numbered by the form twos due to class sizes and the inclusion of the clearly partisan lunch cooks, babies on backs and children in tow, and consequently the form twos dominated in volume. Numbers also gave them the courage to invade the field whenever an exciting bit of play happened. They went absolutely crazy, racing after the players, when the first goal was scored by their team. At these points, boys with sticks assisted the soldier to keep the girls in line.

To me it seemed to be an amazingly reckless game, with players racing into the fray without a single thought to their personal safety. The majority, who were wearing shoes, fared better than those without but, a few players were felled.Madam Simbee commented that the play suggested that some of the team members had been drinking and that they should have had their breath sniffed before they started play.Dust rose around the fancy footwork, sometimes obscuring it from the crowd, but not from the referee.The referee, especially chosen to be neutral, was none other than Boniface, the World Vision worker who was overseeing the building of the new hostel on the school grounds. He did an excellent job and matched the students’ ability to race from one end of the ground to the other tirelessly.

A new chant started, in Swahili – “Form twos, don’t go to sleep now! Keep up the struggle!” – and it was on again. Across from where I was sitting, a five metre high rock provided a natural grandstand for students who are sitting and standing on it, and leaping about as the excitement built up. In contrast, a Maasai man herded his cows past, right alongside the boundary line. He and they strolled past as if they were entirely alone on this dusty plateau. The silhouettes of umbrella acacia, scrubby bush and hump shouldered cattle seemed timeless against the dusky blue sky.

Mr Chalala, Keith and Frank had arrived, back from their session on emailing at the World Vision office. Mr Chalala took his seat of honour behind the official table, and he and the other teachers now seated, took a lively interest and were unable to resist calling out coaching tips and advice from the sidelines.One young teacher was so involved that he ran along the boundary, calling out his tips. The atmosphere was tense and very full-on, but for every injury there was concern and care from both teams, showing that they were friends after all, despite what this war suggested.

At half time the teams separated into their huddles, most of those on the periphery showing their allegiances by becoming hangers on at one end of the ground or the other. Play started again to the sound of a new form two chant – “Our goal keeper was born in Europe so watch out!” – not true, but an entertaining attempt at intimidation. Their goal keeper was now the focus of the cheer squad’s attention, with several excellent saves in a row promoting him to superhero status. He acknowledged the adulation of the girls and seemed to visibly grow in stature as he emulated the greats of the international teams.

A second goal – a disaster now to the form threes – and the soldier had his work cut out to clear the pitch, such were the celebrations of the form twos.The second prize rooster escaped when it was being brought over to the VIP area where we were seated, so a second spectacle of a chase through prickle bushes as a group of students attempted to capture him now diverted me.

The final siren signalled frenzy time. A haze of dust was stamped and danced up as jerseys were swapped and hands were shaken. The form three cheer squad forlornly made its way across the join the crowds, now regrouping in front of Mr Chalala’s official table. In the quietest of voices, Mr Edson spoke of the various games up to this one, with the audience listening in total silence and only responding with cheers at his cues. Mr Chalala also spoke and thanked Mr Edson for his organisation and Boniface for his job as referee, and mentioned his disappointment that some of the spectators had not worn school uniform, as asked. It was a very gentle reproof. Mr Edson announced the places, with the poultry being raised above the receiving captains’ heads as if they were indeed gold cups.The goat had been dressed in the winning uniform of gold and green.It was looking around, amazed at its fate as a dressed up trophy, and its eyes bulged with fear when the form two captain raised it triumphantly above his head. The crowd roared its approval and delight.

Suddenly it was all over, with the teams going off to discuss how to share their prizes and the cheer squads dissipating as their members headed off along various tracks. It was nearly dark, and four of my previous escorts were waiting for me. Keith called at the school office to collect the computer. We set off down the road, with Keith and Frank ahead engaged in what appeared to be a serious and very intense conversation, and me and the girls chatting in a very light hearted way, bringing up the rear. Of course the girls insisted on carrying everything that we had, and for a joke I took off my thongs and handed them over too. It does not take much to share a laugh here. They taught me some Swahili for body parts and clothing, some of which are easy since they are really English, such as blousi and skirti.

Madam Simbee commented to me earlier that the reason that the students are so friendly and helpful to me is because I am so charming with them. While we were on the compliments, I told her how I think that she is a teacher who is really devoted to the progress of each individual, and that she has been a dream to work with. Her enthusiasm and interest for every new idea, and our ability to work and be friends together so well has been wonderful for me. We were escorted to the door of Rosie and Ticha’s house, with both of us feeling great, having had a fantastic time at the Goat Cup.

After tea and a full replay of the soccer match and of Hawa’s role in the form two cheer squad, Hawa stayed and we settled to an amusing game of Twenty Questions.

Rosie and Ticha were upset because of the multitude of hurdles placed before the couples at the Baptism lessons, with their second nominee for Godfather not being acceptable and Jarvah’s name being questioned as to acceptability for a Catholic basptism. At the end of the evening, the thought was that our son Aidan’s name could be used for the day. It is a saint’s name and would be acceptable, and Aidan and Rosie are good friends as well as cousins. We did not understand that the name at the baptism would henceforth be our little great nephew’s ongoing name, imagining that the next day he would revert to his real name, the one on his Australian birth certificate, of Jarvah Tichiano Fidelisi. After all, that was the name that they had chosen after great thought, and even after checking a Biblical list on the internet, and it is part of who Jarvah is.

There had been another controversy – over the inclusion of Ticha’s parents in a church celebration for a fiftieth wedding anniversary despite it only being 49 years. Having been off, and then on, and off again, it was now on and the family had to prepare for a party with only two days notice. Father Godi would return for the festivities and Ticha’s brother, Mshaka, near the end of his training to be a priest, had been given the bishop’s blessing to attend as well. Catering for food would be for sixty, a goat would be killed and there would be beans, vegetables and rice. Alcohol production would start in the morning.

We could hear Sandawe singing and drumming coming from a house not so far away, and it floated into our dreams on this warm African night.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Farkwa, Tanzania, Thursday September 25th

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com

Maria gave us our chapatis early so that we could be at school early – the tasks we had undertaken were seemingly immense for the time we had left. Mr Edson was writing notes on evaporation and condensation on the board but withdrew under the force of Madam Simbee’s argument that we had planned a session. I felt a bit like a lesson bully, but he assured me that it was quite all right. The students have said that science equipment is something that they don’t have and so most of their lessons deal with theory and don’t have accompanying experiments.

With photo projects to start for the form twos today, we had decided to leave the camera for the form ones and work on English skills using a game format. After a very brief re-run of the introduction to me and my life in Australia, and some very perceptive questions that reminded me that there were students in their later teens in this class, we began. Madam Josephine was there too. We made lists of movements, colours, sounds and actions that would be used in formulating some ‘Who am I?’ puzzles and later for a whole class game of ‘Twenty Questions’. I thought that I had explained the task of using the lists as supports in writing questions, but as I set off to help individuals, I could see that there was a lot of list writing going on. After several examples and more explanations in English and Swahili, we were in business.This class has only been learning in English this year; an amazing jump that students make when they start secondary school, and one which must impact on their understanding of content in all their subjects.

Morning tea was ground nuts and delicious little cakes that were moist and dense and not too sweet. The Farkwa weight loss that Rosie had promised me due to inevitable sickness had not eventuated, and Madam Simbee was daily working against it. The next session was with form two C & D – 57 students – and involved them writing a few sentences to go with photos of themselves, in a slide show project that introduced the class members. It was quite a challenge to correct writing, supervise photos, and maintain a list of names in the order that the photos were taken, and it was a good thing that there were two of us to do it.

Keith spent the morning with more computer tutorials with teaching staff, taking one or two at a time, whenever they had no teaching commitments.Keith had decided to finish his sessions early today so that we could visit the World Vision office. The Project Officer, Frank, had called at the school and Keith had flagged the possibility of Mr Chalala being able to use the World Vision Office internet for sending his reports by email to Joy. On a personal level, with a long history of supporting children through World Vision, we were keen to hear about how it all worked in a community, even if not in the communities that our sponsor children live in.

Frank was not so easy to understand, but was very welcoming and sat us down for a talk. When Keith asked about projects, Edward explained the range and Keith selected sustainability to hear more about. It was very interesting to hear that ‘sustainability’ was not being used in the environmental context that we are so familiar with in Australia, but rather in the sense that support is given to projects that can perpetuate themselves and grow, to the benefit of the wider community without the permanent support of World Vision. Thus, no money was given, only materials and support to groups who are setting up businesses. These Community-Based Organisations (CBOs) need to be cooperative efforts, which make the most of the practical benefits of working together, and so that if one person leaves, expertise and commitment is not lost. The next step is for well functioning CBOs to join together to form locally based groups which are able to access regional loans from the government. It tied in with what had been said at the political meeting on Saturday.

We met six or seven workers in a shared office, with those in charge of sponsor children having huge piles of files in front of them. The Farkwa office is one of the three main offices in Tanzania and the workers cover a very large area. They asked us our impressions of Farkwa – there are so many, but I commented on the lack of cars and the friendliness of the people, and Keith on how the students are so polite and well behaved. We went into the locked computer room and saw the facilities there, and Frank said that he thought that Mr Chalala would be able to use it for occasional scholarship business because it is an aid project too.

Aid projects can be viewed quite differently by donors, recipients and observers of that aid. One man was very pally with us, and said immediately that we were his Australian mother and father. This is a cultural difference that some of the sponsors have found difficult to understand in letters. Students have referred to sponsors as their parents, have asked for large gifts like bicycles and sometimes have asked when they can come to Australia. For some Australian sponsors, such requests have been overwhelming and people have wanted to back off a bit. After all, they were only providing assistance with education, not adopting a child. It was an odd thing to meet this in a man in his late twenties, with a good job, and even odder when, after only the third meeting with him, he asked Keith if we would give him a computer and if we could help to find another job for him. We, too, wanted to back off.

Frank escorted us home, and I spent quite a while typing up the form two introductions on the front step, with the dogs flaked out in the shade and the ever busy chooks on the lookout for food.That evening, Hawa, who is in form two, and Keith tried to put the photos with the typing on the form two slide show, but they were working in the bedroom to the very dim light of a torch with batteries that were on the way out. Rosie was having a rare evening over with the family sitting around the fire, Jarvah was asleep and Sebi was with me. We looked at a book together. It was a strange book, in English, and was a school reader dealing with inter-tribal abuse and the law. Luckily there were some more child-friendly pictures of animals and we focused on those. The English program at school includes reading materials such as this, with themes that are very relevant to modern life in Africa, are high interest for teenagers and yet are written in English at different levels. Rosie and Ticha had bought many new titles to add to the collection when they arrived in Tanzania, using funds raised by the scholarship group. Daily, I came to realise how much work Joy and the sponsors have done, and also how much time and effort Rosie and Ticha have put into fulfilling all the tasks given to them in relation to the scholarships while they have been here.

Eventually Rosie returned for bed, having had a ‘once in a blue moon’ night out, if only to the fireside, and she was happy to have had that time with Ticha in the heart of the family.

Many of the trees in Tanzania are deciduous. They lose their leaves in the dry season to reduce moisture loss. They look dead now but by December they will be covered in new leaves.


Farkwa, Tanzania, Wednesday September 24th

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com


This morning, Gracia kindly took our phone along with others in the family, to the phone tower to be recharged. Before it went we took out the sim card, as advised, so that no-one can use the credit or our phone numbers.

When I arrived at school, Madam Simbee was doing correction in the staff room, so I went in to the form fours and worked with them individually, correcting their drafts for their photo project texts.Not everything had gone to plan, so we sorted out who still had photos to take and to be saved on the computer. Keith was in the office with both computers being used for tuition, but he had agreed that if I sent students in, he would save their photos into their folders for them. I sent notes of what needed to be done with each student, but they had not met Keith beyond seeing him on the first day, and so they were very shy and did not show him the notes. He just took the camera and saved the photos en masse, which meant that I had to make another time later when I could go with the students and do the task.

The students were now onto rehearsing their oral reading, and as a group we corrected pronunciation, which included problems of the ends of words being swallowed and for other words, the sound ‘ee’ being added at the end. It was so exciting after the break when I took in the computer and we set the chairs up so that everyone could watch.

The students whose photos had been correctly saved, read their texts, at the same time using the arrows on the computer to move through the photos. The greatest challenge was to be able to do a double click with the mouse to open a folder, and that was after mastering the mouse to get the arrow on to the folder in the first place. There was much hilarity and loads of advice from those who had (and those who hadn’t) had a turn. Mr Chalala came in to witness this special event, and made a very sweet speech congratulating the students on their progress and use of the technology in studying English. Previously very shy girls volunteered to re-run their photos and texts, vying with the now very confident boys. Of course the second runs were much better, with the photos of the girls dying now synchronising with the reading of the text of what happens to you if you don’t eat, and the farmer’s marketing photo being at the same time as the reading about negotiating a price for the crop.

The form three texts were ready for me to type and their photos had been taken and copied onto our computer. At last my camera was finished with for the day, and having declined a school lunch since I would have been catered for at home, I set off down the hill after two o’clock. Rosie was at the tailor, Mama Rosie’s, next door, discussing her new outfit for the celebrations on Sunday. She had some beautiful Maasai material that she had bought at the market. It is customary here for women to be called Mama and the name of their first born, so Rosie is Mama Sebi and Mama Rosie’s first born is called Rosie (a common name in this community). Ticha and I chatted while I ate.

The hectic pace of the morning gave way to the rhythmic hand washing of our few clothes and the easy chatting that Rosie and I enjoyed together. So many of Rosie’s experiences as a mother of young children had been mine and are probably fairly universal in Australia. It threw into contrast the communal nature of child care here and the lack of busy activities involving driving here and there, supermarket and other shopping, classes for this and that and a pace of life that interrupts sleeps and feeds. Sebi and Jarvah were often with their cousins or uncles and aunts, and there were people on hand to mind them if Rosie was busy or needed to go somewhere. Jarvah would be brought back when he was tired or hungry, and Sebi would come back for a more complicated variety of reasons, and often in tears. So, in a way, there was a lot of respite, but when the children were around in the late afternoons, it would often be the times when there was conflict, grizzles, tiredness and food to deal with.

I asked Rosie and Ticha if it would be all right for me to lend Pius and Freddy my camera so that they could take some photos of their own to take to Australia with them. We had talked about having albums for their own memories and also to show the new people they met in Australia about their life in Africa. Pius, who was at home, was very excited, and after a brief lesson he was off.As it turned out, it provided a kind of marker of change and suddenly everyone was focussed on the impending departure of the boys. All the older cousins had fun with the camera. When a photo is taken, people always want to see what it looks like, and a small audience enjoys following the photographer around and looking at the results. So Pius had sudden celebrity status, but so did all the other cousins who took turns to capture each other in various poses. Over their last days in the village, Pius and Freddy would come and collect the camera when it was not at school, and go off to record their own images of home.

My trip to see Mama Rosie was postponed when Sebi woke up not feeling very well and then Jarvah wanted a feed at the same time. Ticha and Rosie swapped and re-swapped children as they tended to their needs. Sebi was given some Panadol, which helped. Medication of any kind, including ointments, is called ‘dowa’, and after Sebi repeatedly said that he needed more, and Rosie and Ticha said that he couldn’t have more, the word is indelibly imprinted on my mind. Perhaps three year olds would make the best language teachers!

An hour later, all had changed; Jarvah was playing and Sebi had cheered up. He came with Rosie, Hawa, Gracia, Maria and me to see Mama Rosie. She has a tiny front room for her business and is a ‘fundi’, the word for a skilled tradesman (or woman) in any sphere. We all squeezed in and perched on her couch. I handed over my material and explained, and was translated by Hawa and Rosie, that I liked the style of Madam Simbee’s black dress with the yellow spots on it. Mama Rosie knew the one. I showed a drawing just to be sure we were of the same mind. Everyone was impressed with the drawing and even more so when I produced one on the spot to check if I had correctly understood Gracia’s suggestion. Meanwhile, Maria had raced off to someone’s house to borrow a dress in that style so I could try it on. I put it on over my skirt and top and modelled it. Lots more laughter. The dress had no seams other than side seams, a scooped neck and sleeves that were cut to wide points at the elbows. After much thought, Mama Rosie now attempted a drawing, much to everyone’s amusement, since it gave me one massively bulbous arm. As a compromise between the two styles, but with a higher neck and long sleeves for sun protection, it was perfect. My measurements were taken swiftly, with none of them being written down until the end. Amazing!

Gracia and Hawa negotiated their outfits, with Gracia making some points as mother that Hawa did not sound as if she was agreeing with. Mama Rosie was going to make four outfits before Sunday and she was going to have a try at making me a hat to go with my dress. We left her and her treadle machine to it, but when we stepped outside, we realised that four of us had the same thongs and that only Rosie could reclaim her pink ones with confidence. We took some photos of this light hearted and very memorable moment.

After a while Keith returned, escorted by Mr Chalala. We discussed the custom of the multiple greetings used in Tanzania and Mr Chalala told us about an American colleague of his. He thought the whole thing was a complete waste of time, with up to ten minutes being spent on every person you met and a short walk taking a long time. I told Mr Chalala how one of the joys of Inverleigh was that it could take more than an hour to go to the shop, ten minutes from our place, if you had the pleasure to meet people. We were agreed that it leads to good feelings and that it is important to ‘give’ time to people. This is different to the concept of such a practice ‘taking’ time, with the implication that it is robbing time from much more important things. Finally Mr Chalala asked permission to leave, which we granted, and it was tea time.

Hawa was eating with us, and we all enjoyed Rosie’s story of the buffalo that came to the bucket outside her tent to try to get water, when she worked here as a safari camp manager, and when she met Ticha. There is nothing more conducive to story telling than a flickering flame, and the kerosene lantern provided one. I made up a story of five brothers who didn’t get on and how their problems were solved by a moth, using shadows on the wall as well. We all enjoyed that, especially the bits when I had no idea what to make up next and then would think of a solution. It was a lovely evening for us story tellers and listeners, and something that is so much fun to do with Sebi. Keith was looking at the typing tutor program that had come with the computer so that he could show it to the teachers the next day. The final word of the day went to Sebi, who said that he needed more ‘dowa.’


In the dry season farmers prepare new land by burning the grass and shrubs then removing the trees. Sometimes the stumps or even whole trees are left in what will be a new paddock.

Below: Farkwa food

The blue containers are like vacuum flasks, keeping the food hot for a long time.

Ugali is made from maize or millet. It is ground extensively before being made into a paste which is cooked until it is very thick (about the consistency of play dough).

The bowl of ugali is usually shared. Each person takes a small amount and moulds it into a scoop shape.

It is then used to help pick up some of the other food (if there is any). This green vegetable is collected in the local bush and is quite tasty, despite its resemblance to slime. At school the normal lunch is ugali and beans (like baked beans in a very thin sauce).

On this occasion we also have some potato in a sauce. Food such as this or meat pieces can be picked up with the right hand, or you could use some ugali to help pick it up.

The new house continues to make rapid progress.

Friday, October 24, 2008

Farkwa, Tanzania, Tuesday September 23rd

Keith and Christine would love to hear from you with questions, comments, personal news and any news at all from Australia or wherever you are. We will reply to all emails! Please write to either windlechristine@gmail.com or windle.keith@gmail.com

Madam Simbee was not in evidence when I arrived, so I went to the Form 4 class to find her. Mr Chalala was taking a session in which he went over exam questions that had been incorrectly answered on the mock examination. As soon as he saw me, he said that he would continue at another time because he knew that Madam Simbee and I had planned some interesting sessions for the students. Every time I meet Mr Chalala, I am struck by his humble nature and the fact that he does not stand on his position with us. He addressed the students in a soft and courteous manner, and handed over to me.

Later I was amazed at how I just got on with things, introducing the task and explaining how making a plan, rather than just writing to a formula, will help them to achieve a good essay structure that makes sense. The plan would also be useful for flagging the spots at which each of the digital photos would be shown. A student had gone over to Madam Simbee’s house to let her know that I was there, and she arrived in time for the planning lesson, just after I had taught everyone how to use my digital camera. I had not given any thought to using it with the students, but the reality of having only one camera in the time we had, forced my hand.The decision made and the introductions given, it was full steam ahead. Or so I thought. In fact, the idea of planning a piece of writing, of giving information as well as personal interests and opinions and including cues for photos, was different enough to need lots of individual assistance. While I did that, Madam Simbee was accessing items for costumes for the photos. This included a whole set of real weapons, a sack of maize, hoes, football and netball outfits and balls and many kangas (lengths of fabric) to be draped in many different ways.

My idea of each student working on their writing until a camera was brought back in for the next person to use, had not taken into account the magic that a digital camera provides if you have never used one, or any other sort of camera, before. Add to that the excitement and fun of all the dressing up and posing for scenes – suddenly I realised that there was no-one inside writing! With the students we knew not where, with lots of dangerous items and both our digital cameras, Madam Simbee suggested that we take a rest and eat some boiled eggs and peanuts! So off we went and left them to it. This was very different to the thousand requirements of student supervision in the primary schools that I have taught in, in Australia.

The projects and planning for the photos had required lots of talking for a real purpose, and all shyness had been forgotten in the excitement over discussing the proposed photos and the texts. Madam Simbee was right into this activity, and commented on how such activities promote a different kind of relationship with the students. To some extent the students were running blind, since they only had my version of what the final presentations could be like, the computer and camera being entirely new to them.

The Form 3 project was similar, but we realised that we could not possibly fit in individual projects for all the forms while I was there, and so asked them to work in groups. They were to produce a short text matching their photos that I could type onto a slide show – to introduce the students and Madam Simbee to that format. Their topic of ‘Life in Farkwa’ would be one that would encourage looking at aspects of their lives that would be interesting to someone from another country.

Back to Form 4 to check on the progress with photos and who needs more props, and then the new teacher, having arrived at the school at last, came in for his timetabled lesson. He offered to let me continue but I didn’t want to disrupt his start with his new students, and it was 12.30. I left my camera for the students to use in the time after lunch and went home.

I had forgotten to ask Keith for the key again. It was one of the contradictions of Farkwa that, in a small place where everyone knew everyone, the washing had to be brought in before dark so it wouldn’t be stolen, and that not only the outside doors of the house were locked but the inside ones were too if the person was not home.

At the political meeting I had met the Primary School Head Teacher, and he had warmly invited me to visit his school. A message had been received via Ticha that today would be the day. I was interested to see the school, being a primary school teacher myself, and also to learn about the school that Freddy and Pius, Ticha’s older sons from a previous relationship, had been attending. They would be moving to Australia to live with Rosie and Ticha, and big changes and challenges lay in store for them.

The Primary School is up a long drive, with teachers’ residences along it. The students were outside but no teachers were in sight, and there was a general twittering like sparrows, as is universal with young children. A teacher emerged and guided me to the Head Teacher’s office. We chatted for a while about the school, which was started in 1945. Students begin at seven years, and pass through the streams 1 – 7, finishing at around 14 years. There is an exam at the end and not everyone passes and not everyone who does is able to go on to secondary school, often for financial or helping the family reasons. In theory each stream should have 40 – 45 students with a teacher, but in reality there can be 60 – 90 in a group. The students have academic classes from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., followed by timetabled outside activities. Today they were doing tasks to take care of the environment - cleaning the yard and fetching water, as the timetabled playing time had been swapped because the balls were in bad repair.

I was struck by the professionalism and real dedication to the students that the Head Teacher showed. It was not in a PR way, but in his awareness of the realities of life for children here and in his willingness to consider how best to help individuals. His conversation was peppered with hopes for improvements. The provision of lunch at the primary school is supported by a World Vision Australia project, making a third Australian link to education here. Ticha’s sister, Inyasia, is one of the cooks.

While I had been welcomed and our talk had been very interesting, I sensed some reservations for the idea of me coming in to visit an English class. All the classes except English are taught in Swahili. Some teachers were called over to meet me, with a stilted greeting session in Swahili with a couple, and a few English greetings and exchange of thoughts on what lay ahead of Pius, with the English teacher. After they left, we arranged that if there was a time that I could come in, and if the teacher felt comfortable, the Head Teacher would let me know. I was not surprised when I didn’t ever hear back. I could well imagine how the teacher might feel if a person fluent in English came into her lesson, and particularly if that person was a teacher with university qualifications. The Head Teacher had asked me about primary teacher training in Australia, and had been struck by the contrast to here, where teacher training can be started after form four.

My visit to the World Vision office further down the hill was a fizzer, with no-one answering the door, despite locals telling me that the workers had been seen only that morning.

While I was rambling around the village, it occurred to me that to a great extent, I had an advantage over Keith in learning about life in Farkwa. I was constantly talking with students, both at school and as they escorted me up and down the hill. I also shared more life with Rosie and the family in the afternoons, and here I was, out and about finding out more on my own. Every day Keith spent most of his time in the office, always working on teaching the computer, and now he had started returning well after school finished for the day. He and the key had not returned as the sun started to drop, so I borrowed some toiletries from Rosie and pannikined half a bucket of water out of the tank for a wash.

I learnt a new method of tossing the rice up and down in a basket to rid it of stones from Inyasia. Finally Keith arrived and had a brief and refreshing wash himself. The heat here is dry and not draining for us. After tea we looked at the photos taken at school. Our computer battery was flat and we both needed to work on the computers at night – me to prepare for the student projects with typing and filing photos for Madam Simbee to use to make slide shows, and Keith for saving Rosie’s and our photos and to prepare for his sessions with the unfamiliar programs.

It was frustrating to have a DC converter instead of an inverter producing AC power from the school’s new solar panel, and now that Keith was at school all day, it was not so easy to get to the mission to charge our computer battery. Necessity being the mother of invention, he came up with a way to connect our computer to the solar panel. It meant that from now on, our computer could be used until the battery ran out while, at the same time, the school computer ran on the solar power and its battery was charged up. The changeover would then be made, with a precarious makeshift arrangement with scraps of wire to power our computer while the school computer ran on its battery.

Rosie returned from the Mission where she had been going over scholarship boarding costs. Father Godi had raised the question of medical costs, which in the past year have included taking a student to hospital and paying for her treatment and medications at the Mission’s expense. It is tricky to draw a line for the scholarships, since some parents are willing to abdicate all financial responsibility for their children and others really do not have the money. If the child was at home, they would have had a rest and perhaps some local traditional medicines.

Father Godi was off to Kondoa for a few days and, since he may not be back before we leave, we went over to say ‘Goodbye’. He showed us his office and the old ledger that bears the names of everyone baptised in the parish. He showed us how long term use has damaged it and suggested that there would be advantages in having a computer for easy access to the records, and how, if the mission could acquire a computer, someone could be trained in touch typing to copy the records. Everything he said is true, but I was adamant that, for records such as this, a paper version needs to continue to be kept. I am not very ‘au fait’ with papal infallibility, but I certainly know a lot about computer fallibility. We exchanged contact details, and the hope that we will meet again.

The evening was quiet at home, after a day when there had been very noisy periods. The family had provided an alcohol inducement for people to help with collecting rocks from the bush to form the base of the floor for the new house. Men and women had carried rocks on their heads and left them in a heap beside the end wall.

As the day had worn on, the volume during the gradually more frequent break times, had increased. A woman had greeted me, and asked me if I wanted to take a photo, but I couldn’t since my camera was at school being used by students. Rosie said that in such situations she usually stays clear, since people can become a bit silly and they make comments in Sandawe that she can’t understand. The Sandawe language is the mother tongue of the people here, and includes clicks. It is very hard to pick up, and virtually impossible for me, although Fidelisi keeps trying to teach me words.

Later in the day, a woman, who is apparently drunk all the time and not just on this occasion, was all over Rosie and me, and not in any way inclined to go home. Her husband finally led her off, a man who is reputed to have beaten this wife each Sunday while others watched as entertainment. Wise people hide their alcohol when this woman appears.

We talked about the challenges ahead for Freddy and Pius, and for them all as a newly formed full time family unit. Freddy and Pius are excellent child minders and the boys are happy to be with them. On the whole, Freddy and Pius spend little time with Ticha and Rosie here, and are still in the pattern of life they are used to with their grandparents. They are very responsible and lovely boys, and we all feel that they will have the right attributes to settle in to school once they are in Australia. We discussed the different stages that they might pass through, and the support that they will need, not only in the exciting initial stages, but as time goes by. Rosie has decided that this can be Pius’s last week at school, and that he can spend his last days working through his farewells.