Ancient Epidavros, Greece, March 24th

It was with great excitement that we set out this morning, leaving our hostel at 7.30 to catch the local bus to Kissifoss, the intercity bus station in suburban Athens. While we were in Crete, Christos, a couch surfer, had invited us to stay with him in Ancient Epidavros, 140 km by road from Athens. We had already left the mainland and from Crete we had intended to go to the islands of Santarini and Rhodes. So we asked ourselves, “Should we go back to the Greek mainland?” From our reading of Christos’ profile, he seemed a friendly person with a good sense of humour, so we were keen to meet him.

We had been to Epidavros thirty-three years ago and had visited the ancient theatre. We had fond memories of that time and, having read a bit more about the area, we decided to go. Taking opportunities like this is what our sort of travel is all about. The bus took about an hour and twenty minutes to get to Nea (New) Epidavros, where we got out.

Public transport in Greece is excellent. All the buses we have travelled on have been fairly new and clean, with a ticket collector as well as a driver on shorter trips. This is particularly helpful for people who need assistance physically or with knowing where to get off. The prices are cheap – half a Euro for a half hour trip across Athens and €11.40 for a 2 ½ hour trip from Nafplio to Athens. The metro was extended and given an overhaul for the Olympics and is a dream to use. Stations are announced in Greek and English, everything is spotless and at Pireaus station, there is an art gallery of prints of the Port of Pireaus by different artists from different eras.

Christos arrived a few minutes later to pick us up. He is a warm and welcoming person with a twinkle in his eye and a real zest for living and enjoying life. He had actually left his work to collect us. He drove us around his village of Ancient Epidavrous so that we could get our bearings before taking us to his house. After showing us everything and handing over a set of keys, he returned to work and we set about making ourselves at home.

Being able to use a kitchen is a treat. We enjoyed planning for two meals and meeting the ladies in the little supermarket across the street. They gave excellent advice on cheeses for different purposes. Generally we buy cheese on the criterion of price, so we have had a few shockers.

We set off down the street and reached the most idyllic beach after about 100 metres of twists and turns. A perfect half moon bay with a sand edge and beach volley ball court ended in a paved walkway over the rocks. Following it we were led into another tiny bay where a pebbled beach lay at the base of a pine forest. Jade green lizards basked on the path, plants grew to the shoreline and the hill, covered in little walking paths, rose steeply behind. In the water a man snorkelled with a marker attached while some tourist parents and children played and walked together. Enchanting!

Following the shoreline in the other direction we skirted the Hotel Mike and others designed to cater for the summer rush, and came to the sheltered port where a few fishing vessels were tied up. The steep peninsula at the other end of the beach beyond the port hid a small ancient theatre. We set off along a track between the orange groves to find it. The walk was ideal – blue sky, orange blossom perfume, the path easy to follow and the destination reached before doubts about being lost started to arise.

I have previously written about the implications of finding archaeological evidence on your land, but this theatre must have been the extreme case. A pleasant but abandoned house abuts the site and the outdoor oven belonging to it is on the fence line. I don’t know what happened, but I imagine that they were just digging their vegetable garden one day when suddenly their pleasantly sloping back yard revealed itself to be a small (at least 1000 seat!) ancient theatre. What a shock! They nobly reported it even though their first impulse may have been to cover it in compost.

The theatre is currently closed while conservation works are being undertaken, however you can walk around the fence and see it from different angles. It is not quite all revealed, with the track covering some and the land on the other side currently being excavated.

For adventure, we took the track leading through the oranges and olives over the hill. Our eyes were now open to signs of more ruins. There seemed to be low walls or foundations and some carefully cut stones mixed with rough stones in terrace walls. Aha!

Rounding the crest we were hit by a cold gale that forced us to turn back and explore in calmer areas. Eventually we reached another beach at the far end of the village, but the windy conditions made it too unpleasant to walk all the way around it.

We strolled homeward, protected by the walls of the sea front properties and the orange trees. This village is quite spread out longways, but it has the traditional layout of houses very close together and opening straight onto the narrow streets. Christos can drink coffee on his balcony and catch up with his neighbours. Everything is clean and well cared for, with many pots of plants and creepers and vines everywhere. There is a fair bit of accommodation for the summer, but it doesn’t feel like a village in waiting for the season. It is bustling along, with its citizens busy going about their lives in a small community.

After cooking and eating our meal, I caught up on some thank you notes and Keith worked on our photos. Christos had to work until 1 a.m. so we had an early night.

This beach has the back fences of rich people's houses almost in the water.

A lot of plumbing in Greece is above ground. These water pipes for irrigating the olive trees are well and truly above ground.

An excavation site beside the theatre, showing the actual excavation protected by plastic, while an old olive tree is suffering the effects of digging up the past.

The local church is decked out in Greek flags and blue and white crosses in readiness for Greece's National Day tomorrow.