Sunday, March 2, 2008

The End of the Grand Tour of Egypt

February 24th
It came to us in a rush that this was it - our tour group’s last day together. We had spent two weeks learning about each other, relying on each other, sharing and building up -relationships. We set off to have our last meal (a late lunch/early dinner) at a restaurant that specialised in fish. We were catered for as well and indulged in beautiful fresh fruit juices. After the meal Julie asked for the TV, with its bizarre music clips of buxom Egyptian girls in sequinned jumpsuits reminiscent of ABBA, to be turned off.
Mamdoh spoke of his worries that the group had not enjoyed the second half of the trip as much as the first but we reassured him that we had, but that getting tired and being very comfortable with each other had led us to be quieter, and that we had had a great time. He then went around the table commenting on each person, and when he spoke about Megan (from Chicago), he said what we suspected; that they had developed a very special relationship. Under Julie’s guidance, many of us had written a verse to the tune of ‘Oh Susannah’, to sing with a new and appropriate version of the chorus. It was a little hard to hear all the words, so luckily Julie, with Constance for support, will produce a copy of all the verses for us everyone, and particularly for Mamdoh, to keep.
Keith and I had decided to stay on in Alexandria for a few days of rest rather than return to Cairo with the group. This was definitely the last moment with the whole group for us so, I gave a little speech expressing my admiration for, and appreciation of, everything Mamdoh had done for us. I also wanted to thank the group members and to invite them to come and stay with us in Australia. It was an emotional time – expressing feelings and realising that the end had come.
There was a complete change of mood as we set off for the last group walk to a coffee shop, which Jeff, Julie, Constance, Keith and I interrupted with a gelati purchase – 10c Aust for mine. At the coffee house, Jeff and I talked about possibilities and ideas that had sprung to us from experiences on the trip. He would make contact with a friend – a Luxor girl he met during the tour. We were beginning to look towards our other lives. Finally we straggled off and went our own ways for the evening, some getting lost, some going back to the hotel early, some going shopping and others taking a romantic stroll. Keith and I faced the reality that we were back to having to think for ourselves accommodation-wise, so we called at a few hotels, hoping to find a cheap one. Our days of luxury now over, the criteria were back to low price, no dripping tap and an OK pillow.
Next morning we rose for the last breakfast – cake, olives, cheese, jam, bread sticks, tea – and received the welcome gifts of antiseptic hand wash and toilet paper from Ken and Leah, who no longer needed them. We were also given a Lonely Planet Guide to Egypt by Jeff, which we greatly appreciated. We got the chance to speak to everyone personally and to write Mamdoh a note to accompany his tip – he was a fantastic, ever giving and talented tour guide and we were incredibly lucky to have him and the individuals in our group.
We went down to see everyone load into the mini van. By then they were over being sad at losing us because they realised that they had more seat room! It was with a real feeling of loss that we waved them off – the friends we hope to keep in touch with by email and to see one day in their, or our, travels.
Dragging our way upstairs I felt incredibly tired and slept for two hours. We set out for some serious hotel hunting and, advised by the tourist bureau, we found the Pension Acropole for E₤80 (Aust $16) a night, and carried our belongings across.
During the afternoon we went out for lunch in what was once a grand restaurant but now serves cheap fare. We joined the two elderly French ladies and several others, including the waiter, who looked as if they had been there since the building’s hey day. A directionless stroll led us to the old quarter, which had winding lanes too narrow for cars, and cats by the dozen. We bought some puffed up and delicious looking bread but found later that it is flat bread dried out so that it is crisp and brittle. It is all about mind set, so once we regarded it as dipping chips and not as another purchasing disaster, it tasted great with our cheese for dinner.
Today has been satisfyingly lazy and non-productive, except for typing and checking of emails.
On our walk we found this excavation site with Roman era buildings being uncovered.
Alexandria has a rich heritage of French and Italian influenced architecture. Some buildings have been well maintained and many are in a state of neglect and disrepair.
Alexandria has an extensive tram network. Some trams are double deckers.
Both in Cairo and in Alexandria in many streets you have to watch where you are walking. A vast amount of Egyptian infrastructure is in a state of serious disrepair.

Many small businesses in Cairo and Alexandria, like this mechanic, use the street or footbath as their workshop area.

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