Santorini to Rhodes, Greece, March 29th

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The port had been calm but the sea was rough, with the ferry seeming to plunge up and down as well as sideways as we churned on. The smell of diesel from the vehicles entering the hold seemed to linger and even to pervade my cabin. Strangely, I seemed to be in a cabin with men and since I had not been with Keith when he bought the tickets, I assumed that the mixed room was cheaper. I put my nightie on the bed and went up to sit with Keith. He had not booked me a mixed cabin and said that even if I wasn’t fussed, he was and that the men might get a shock when they woke up. Also, was I on a top bunk? I went to see the purser and was given a new cabin with no-one else in it as yet. The steward suggested that Keith could come down but would have to leave at the next port in 4 hours time in case a lady had booked the cabin. We were both so tired that waking up in 4 hours time did not look like a good option. Keith retired to a comfortable and spacious spot on the floor upstairs and I went to bed.

At Iraklio a lady joined me and she fell into a deep sleep which lasted until the 10.30 p.m. landing at Rhodes. She must have taken a sleeping tablet since there was plenty of stopping at ports, noise and rolling movement.

I rose at midday and returned for an afternoon sleep from four to six and then took a shower. The day was spent reading, chatting to other travellers and catching up on typing and photos. Keith slept reasonably and then drifted off in his chair now and then during the day. We ate twice (the usual bread, cheese and salad) at odd times and weren’t sure technically what meals they were.

We met Barbara and Keith, an inspirational couple who have travelled extensively all their lives. Before they had children they travelled for five years. Now they make a trip of many months each year. They had some good tips for us and interesting stories of their travels in out of the way places as well as in Europe. Another passenger, Paulina from Poland, speaks five languages and is working on the island of Symi, between Rhodes and Turkey. She works in the summer selling jewellery and in the winter visits her family and her boyfriend who is studying in Crete. She said Symi is absolutely swamped with tourists in summer and when winter comes, it is hard to make a living and many tourist industry employers close down. It means you have to try to make your year’s salary in a few short months or seek work elsewhere.

As the ferry approached the port, we were looking forward to meeting Michael, our next coach surfing host. He would be there to meet us and to take us to his home in Afantou, about 25 km south of the port at the city of Rhodes.

A slight hiccup was caused by our phone running out of credit, so when we arrived we were not able to contact Michael with the exact time. A kind person made the call for us on his phone and, after a short wait, Michael arrived.

Michael is a frequent traveller to Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. He has friends from many countries and lots in Australia where he hopes to visit one day. Although it was the middle of the night, he took us for a tour of the places we might visit in Rhodes. It was really helpful to get our bearings since there is the old town, the medieval town which still has many people living in it, and the modern town. From the port we had been able to see the massive walls that encircle the town. Michael drove in one of the seven gates and stopped so that we could check opening hours at various venues. In the new town he gave us a look at the bus stops and timetables and the cheapest cafes, and then took us to his father’s place. It was now nearing 1 am. Michael lives with his mother in her village but we were to stay with his father because his father has more space. We had had no idea about this arrangement. Not surprisingly, Michael’s father, John, was in bed, but he cheerfully welcomed us. John speaks Greek and German and a very little English. I thought how amazing he was, at seventy-two and in a wheel chair, to welcome total strangers into his home with very little in the way of language in common.

Michael is a very well organised and thoughtful person who now set about making us a meal, since there would have been little to eat on the boat. He had not remembered that we are vegetarian so he had bought a chicken to roast outside. Not at all fazed, he whipped up a green soup with lemon and olive oil which was delicious. All the while we had been chatting, with Michael telling us about his travels and his job as a baker. He left at about 2.30 am and we went to bed.

As there were not many passengers on the ferry, Keith was able to spread out over several seats, one table and a space on the floor where he slept.