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I had intended to stay awake to meet Umit when Jim went to collect her at 11pm but suddenly it was the next morning and we were meeting over breakfast. Umit had prepared a Turkish breakfast with boiled eggs, cheeses, olives, different breads, jams, a chestnut paste and tea. It was delicious and by the time we finished, it turned out to be brunch.
Umit and Jim met in California, America and are interested in, and practitioners of, alternative healing methods. Umit does tarot readings and has built up a clientele by word of mouth. She had been away doing readings in Ismir when we arrived. Umit was so friendly and welcoming, and is keen to do some travelling herself. She and Jim moved to Turkey a year ago and bought their home in Turkutreis.
Umit took us for a walk into the centre of the town. The houses were of white painted concrete, most with more than one house in the same building. Unlike flats, the division between homes is vertical. We passed a large private cemetery with about 12 graves in it, some abandoned farm buildings and a citrus grove. These were all signs that a rural seaside village had been transformed by a building boom in the last fifty or so years.
We sauntered through the weekly farmer’s market, which was easily as big as the Victoria Market in Melbourne and is the biggest in this region. There were endless stalls of clothes, slippers, fabrics, hardware items, toys, manchester, craft needs, shoes and you name it. To one side was the fruit, vegetable, cheese and delicatessen section which we would visit after our walk. This was definitely a business of daily living market, and although I saw one souvenir stall, I saw no-one at it. Everywhere else business was humming along at a brisk pace.
We called into a real estate office where we were given a cup of coffee while Umit chatted to her friends there. There were many houses for sale at prices much cheaper than in Australia, but standing on land much smaller than an Australian block. There is a regulation regarding which parts of Turgutreis foreigners can purchase homes in, and Umit explained that it is to protect the housing needs of the Turkish people. The area for foreigners is mixed, with Turkish housing there as well.
The waterfront was undergoing a face lift for summer. The water and islands looked enticing, so it is easy to see why so many Turkish and other people have summer homes here. The Marina was enormous and absolutely packed, with many of the boats bearing international flags. This is due to the marina berth fees being very low compared to other places with comparable facilities. There was a sprinkling of little boats, which seemed all that would have been needed to make it to the nearby islands. In fact, swimming seemed a reasonable possibility. Two islands, just off shore and joined by a white, sandy beach, seemed to be a perfect destination.
Some formal gardens were planted beside the bayside promenade and ran up a hill to an impressive statue. It featured Admiral Turkus, who in the Ottoman times was a great naval hero, born in this area, whose exploits led the Mediterranean to be known as the ‘Turkish Lake’. In 1972 the town’s name was changed from Thermera to Turkutreis in his honour, and the statue was erected. An amphitheatre had been built for outdoor performances, and tucked away in one corner of the gardens, a grave and chapel remained, reminders of Byzantine occupation long ago.
Umit loves to cook and has written a cookery book of Turkish recipes called ‘From My Heart To Your Kitchen’. We followed her in the fruit and vegetable market as she shopped, going from stall to stall, tasting and looking for the best quality. A man started to harangue the crowd passionately through a loud hailer with an environmental message about the problems caused by plastic bags and that people should avoid using them. No-one seemed to take any notice, but to us, the consumption of plastic bags there seemed chronic. Umit agreed that it is early days for that message in Turkey as yet. Another man strolled along playing the violin, vendors called out about their wares, and the air was full of voices discussing the produce and prices. Umit explained to us that all prices are negotiable in Turkey. Laden with many plastic bags full of vegetables, cheese and enormous round sheets of very thin pastry, we met Jim and were driven home.
Umit cooked a traditional Turkish meal. The soup was made with tomatoes, onions, parsley, dill, mint and couscous. The next course had a dish of creamy grains, a stew of onions, leeks and herbs and some little pancakes made from grated zucchini, eggs, flour, onion and herb mix. Delicious. We had a non-Turkish non-traditional ice-cream sundae for dessert.
After tea Umit whipped up a cake for the next day, while I took mental notes so that I can make it when we return. We chatted about interests and travels, and particularly about Greece, where Unit plans to go very soon.
Umit and Jim met in California, America and are interested in, and practitioners of, alternative healing methods. Umit does tarot readings and has built up a clientele by word of mouth. She had been away doing readings in Ismir when we arrived. Umit was so friendly and welcoming, and is keen to do some travelling herself. She and Jim moved to Turkey a year ago and bought their home in Turkutreis.
Umit took us for a walk into the centre of the town. The houses were of white painted concrete, most with more than one house in the same building. Unlike flats, the division between homes is vertical. We passed a large private cemetery with about 12 graves in it, some abandoned farm buildings and a citrus grove. These were all signs that a rural seaside village had been transformed by a building boom in the last fifty or so years.
We sauntered through the weekly farmer’s market, which was easily as big as the Victoria Market in Melbourne and is the biggest in this region. There were endless stalls of clothes, slippers, fabrics, hardware items, toys, manchester, craft needs, shoes and you name it. To one side was the fruit, vegetable, cheese and delicatessen section which we would visit after our walk. This was definitely a business of daily living market, and although I saw one souvenir stall, I saw no-one at it. Everywhere else business was humming along at a brisk pace.We called into a real estate office where we were given a cup of coffee while Umit chatted to her friends there. There were many houses for sale at prices much cheaper than in Australia, but standing on land much smaller than an Australian block. There is a regulation regarding which parts of Turgutreis foreigners can purchase homes in, and Umit explained that it is to protect the housing needs of the Turkish people. The area for foreigners is mixed, with Turkish housing there as well.
The waterfront was undergoing a face lift for summer. The water and islands looked enticing, so it is easy to see why so many Turkish and other people have summer homes here. The Marina was enormous and absolutely packed, with many of the boats bearing international flags. This is due to the marina berth fees being very low compared to other places with comparable facilities. There was a sprinkling of little boats, which seemed all that would have been needed to make it to the nearby islands. In fact, swimming seemed a reasonable possibility. Two islands, just off shore and joined by a white, sandy beach, seemed to be a perfect destination.
Some formal gardens were planted beside the bayside promenade and ran up a hill to an impressive statue. It featured Admiral Turkus, who in the Ottoman times was a great naval hero, born in this area, whose exploits led the Mediterranean to be known as the ‘Turkish Lake’. In 1972 the town’s name was changed from Thermera to Turkutreis in his honour, and the statue was erected. An amphitheatre had been built for outdoor performances, and tucked away in one corner of the gardens, a grave and chapel remained, reminders of Byzantine occupation long ago.
Umit loves to cook and has written a cookery book of Turkish recipes called ‘From My Heart To Your Kitchen’. We followed her in the fruit and vegetable market as she shopped, going from stall to stall, tasting and looking for the best quality. A man started to harangue the crowd passionately through a loud hailer with an environmental message about the problems caused by plastic bags and that people should avoid using them. No-one seemed to take any notice, but to us, the consumption of plastic bags there seemed chronic. Umit agreed that it is early days for that message in Turkey as yet. Another man strolled along playing the violin, vendors called out about their wares, and the air was full of voices discussing the produce and prices. Umit explained to us that all prices are negotiable in Turkey. Laden with many plastic bags full of vegetables, cheese and enormous round sheets of very thin pastry, we met Jim and were driven home.Umit cooked a traditional Turkish meal. The soup was made with tomatoes, onions, parsley, dill, mint and couscous. The next course had a dish of creamy grains, a stew of onions, leeks and herbs and some little pancakes made from grated zucchini, eggs, flour, onion and herb mix. Delicious. We had a non-Turkish non-traditional ice-cream sundae for dessert.After tea Umit whipped up a cake for the next day, while I took mental notes so that I can make it when we return. We chatted about interests and travels, and particularly about Greece, where Unit plans to go very soon.
Showers on the foreshore
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